FAQ

Unfortunately this is common. Heavy products in large trucks, traveling great distances, along with a few distribution terminals, cause some breakage to occur.

A few things to know. M-Rock always ships extra stone to allow for some breakage. Also most installations require you to make many cuts, so broken stones can be used for these instances. Simply cut the broken stone to fit where needed.

If the damage is more than you are willing to accept, give us a call and we will be happy to make it right for you.

I-Series-McKinley-Flats

We don’t normally ship stone in boxes any more from our site. If you buy M-Rock from Build Direct online, your shipment will be in boxes that weigh anywhere from 40-60 pounds depending on the stone.

You can buy our I-Series in boxes at several Lowe’s stores in eastern U.S.

crate4

 

We now ship all stone in wooden crates that helps insure less breakage. Our crates weigh between 1400 and 1600 pounds, according to the square footage packed in each crate.

You must have a forklift available to offload the crate when your shipment arrives.

P-Series is built to go up with ease.  You simply slide the rail behind the rail below it and put a screw in it.  If you can pull the trigger on a drill you can install P-series.   See installation videos.

Yes, the rail is set in the mold process during the concrete pour.  The concrete then cures around the rail assuring the rail will not come out of the stone.

Will the rail last?

The rail is built out of automotive grade PVC.  PVC has been used for over 50 years to build water and sewer pipes, is used under ground and has already been proven to stand the test of time.  The automotive grade adds high levels of heat resistance to the product so as to assure its performance around anything that produces high heat levels.

For interior use a sheet rock screw is the best option.

For exterior use you must use an exterior grade screw.

What size screw should I use?

The length should be determined by the substrate behind the P-Series.  P-Series is not load baring meaning its weight does not compound as you stack it.  So the screw only needs to hold the P-Series it is going through.  This requires a screw long enough to penetrate the substrate only enough to adequately hold one stone.  Simply put use the shortest screw possible, and if you use a long screw remember there might be something important on the other side of the substrate that you don’t want to put a hole in.

  1. No mortar required to install this product.
  2. Goes up, stays up and performs.  Unlike traditional mortared on products P-Series installation does rely on the bond between the mortar and the stone, in turn eliminating the point of failure between this bond.  In simple terms P-Series is never going to fall off of the wall.
  3. Installation has the same perfect look throughout entire job.  Because you are not relying on the skill of an installer, or most often the case multiple installers that perform at different levels every day.
  4. Built in air and weep system.  This may not seem like that big of a deal but trust us it really is.  If installation is not done properly with traditional stone it can trap water against the substrate of your home or building, this can cause mold or rot.  P-series rails creates a space that always allows water to escape and air to flow greatly reducing the chances for mold or rot.

For interior use a sheet rock screw is the best option.

For exterior use you must use an exterior grade screw.

What size screw should I use?

The length should be determined by the substrate behind the M-Brick.  M-Brick is not load baring meaning its weight does not compound as you stack it.  So the screw only needs to hold the M –Brick it is going through.  This requires a screw long enough to penetrate the substrate only enough to adequately hold one brick.  Simply put use the shortest screw possible, and if you use a long screw remember there might be something important on the other side of the substrate that you don’t want to put a hole in.

Yes, the rail is set in the mold process during the concrete pour.  The concrete then cures around the rail assuring the rail will not come out of the M-Brick.

Will the rail last?

The rail is built out of automotive grade PVC.  PVC has been used for over 50 years to build water and sewer pipes, is used under ground and has already been proven to stand the test of time.  The automotive grade adds high levels of heat resistance to the product so as to assure its performance around anything that produces high heat levels.

This is the part most people are afraid of.  Grout is easily mixed in small manageable amounts and a grout bag is not hard to get the hang of.  Simply use the grout bag to fill the grout lines from the rails forward, the most important thing is to fill the spaces between the brick with grout, over filling is even recommended.  Getting grout on the face of the brick will happen even with a skilled mason doing the job, the trick is to not worry to much about this, let the grout dry to proper timing to finish and clean the grout properly.  Watch our how to video on this to get comfortable then start in the least visible area of your project, grout and finish a small area.  By the time you get to the high visibility area’s you will have the hang on this.  It really is easy.

M-Brick is built to go up simple and with ease.  You simply slide the rail behind the rail below it and put a screw in it.  If you can pull the trigger on a drill you can install M-Brick.   See installation videos.

  1. M-Brick can be an incredible remodel product with no changes to windows or doors necessary for installation adding tremendous value to your home.  Simply remove old siding, add a recommended water barrier and start installing.
  2. You or your contractor can install M-Brick with no need or cost of a brick mason.
  3. No brick foundation or steel lintels needed.
  4. Much easier to handle on the job site.
  5. Easy to install small amounts each day to fit into your schedule.
  6. Air and weep system built in and M-Brick is engineered strong so that it will perform at same high levels as regular brick.

Protecting M-ROCK Stone is not necessary, however, it is recommended in certain applications such as “at grade”, where mud may splash onto the stone or on wood-burning fireplaces, which are exposed to smoke and soot.

  • Penetrating stone sealers is recommended for most veneer stone and masonry sealing applications. This type of sealer penetrates deep into the surface, sealing out water and contaminates. Penetrating stone sealers do not form a film or change the look of the surface. These are very effective, long lasting and offer easy maintenance. This sealant only needs maintenance about every 5 years.
  • A sealer, or protective treatment, will provide added protection and usually be easier to clean if the surface becomes dirty. If you decide to seal your stone veneer, use only a silane or siloxane-based penetrating, breathable masonry sealer. Please note that you should test a small area beforehand because a sealer may affect stone color.
  • It is always recommended that you test any sealer you intend to use on a small area to ensure compatibility.
  • All exterior installed cap stones, or any exterior stone installed face up should be sealed and this should be resealed every two years.

When efflorescence occurs, as it does with many masonry products, it is usually the result of moisture migration through the masonry substrate. Once the moisture is on the masonry surface, it evaporates, depositing dissolved salts in the form of efflorescence.

Efflorescence will disappear over time, but will often reappear from time to time when conditions are right.

 If you wish to clean off efflorescence, use the following instructions:

Efflorescence may be removed with a solution of 1 part white, distilled vinegar to 6 parts water. Gently scrub using a soft bristle brush and vinegar/ water solution. Rinse well with clean water.

 

There are many ways to repair M-Rock.  Through the use of a hammer and a chisel you can chisel off damaged stone and replace with new stone.  It is recommended that you store any remaining stone after your initial installation job for such repairs in the future.  For minor cracks a simple repair of chiseling out the crack deep enough to fill with new grout and finish the grout repair to match the job is an easy technique.  Polyurethane Concrete Adhesives are a great tool for repair work and will provide a high level bond to replace the stone on the wall or even as a repair for the stone itself.  For broken stones the concrete adhesive will bond the rock as strong or often the bond is stronger than the stone itself, and with a bit of sanding on the repair you will not be able to tell the stone was broken. Quikrete has many products that are designed to repair concrete and are available at most Lowe’s stores.

When your stone first arrives it is often going to be newly manufactured.  This stone will often be darker in color and with less color tones throughout the individual stones, because it has not had adequate time to cure.  The stone will however cure rapidly over the next few days and will change to the color that you have picked out.

The color will also vary according to the time of day and amount of shade or sun on the stone.

Concrete is the foundation of our stone and with time the stone will change slightly.  The beauty of the stone is that it changes all the time, with every light condition, and every moisture condition the color of the stone will look different.  Our products are built to last the test of time and to perform at acceptable levels.

The average order for home owners is to 14 days depending on the amount ordered.

8 – 12 pounds per square foot depending on the cure times and the type of stone you ordered.

1 1/2 to 2 1/2 inches in depth depending on the style of stone used.  MSI stone can have a depth of up to 3 inches due to the rail system.

No – order at a minimum of 5% waste depending on complexity of the project.

M-Rock Stone is available in Lowe’s stores as well as many independent building and home  improvement centers.  M-Rock is also available online here and through Build Direct.

Yes! It cuts with ease and is engineered to be cut with either a tile saw or circular saw with a masonry blade. One thing to remember is to minimize your waste by using your cut pieces. Example: When you get to the end of a row and have to make a cut, use your left over piece to start your next row.

Don’t use water to cut the stone this will cause a grey hazing of the product than when dries will not come off.  Do not use water to clean cut dust off of the stone this will cause a grey hazing of the product than when dries will not come off.  Use only a bristled masonry brush to brush the dust off of your stone.

It is not recommended for use below the water line in a pool, a fountain, or below grade. You can however use it to face exterior walls of pools and fountains. Chlorine and other harsh chemicals used in swimming pools can cause damage to the stone and its color. Flashing, water proofing, and the use of a reputable penetrable sealer can be used to deter any damage to the stone.

Yes – M-Rock Stone is predominantly comprised of aggregate and concrete. It can be installed as a facade to fireplaces, outdoor grilling areas, and behind stoves. It is recommended the product is at least 18” away from any direct flame.

All of M-Rock’s Stone and Brick Veneers come with a 40-year warranty and a 100% customer satisfaction guarantee.

Installed, M-Rock manufactured stone is approximately 1/3 to 1/2 the cost of natural stone. Its light weight properties eliminate the need for wall ties or footings. Manufactured stone has a 2% (approximately) waste factor versus 10% or more for natural stone.

Manufactured stone can be installed for a fraction of the cost of natural stone. M-Rock’s architectural stone veneer is lighter weight, designed to adhere easily to a variety of structurally sound surfaces, and is capable of installations that would normally be very difficult and costly to achieve with natural stone. Large sections of natural stone may need weight considerations. MSI along with M-Rock’s traditional stone veneer products are 8-12 lbs a square foot, which is roughly 1/3 of the weight of natural stone. Natural stone may require wall ties and footings, which, in turn, can increase the project cost and difficulty.

Manufactured stone veneer is a concrete product cast in molds of real stone.

Innovation, engineering, ease of installation, and superior customer service are a few of the reasons why you should choose M-Rock products. Our team of professionals are here to assist you. We believe that customer service is not a thing of the past, but it is one of our top priorities. Relationships are important, let us build one with you and your staff.

Bond lines are vertical guidelines that maintain the alternating brick pattern.

Bond lines are 4 3/8” apart and are typically marked at the center of the wall. To properly mark the bond lines first find the center of the wall. Once the center has been marked, measure 2 3/16” to the left of the center and 2 3/16” to the right of the center. These points will be the bond lines.

M-Brick can be installed over multiple surfaces. The recommended substrate is plywood or OSB. Wood surfaces are the easiest to prepare and the easiest substrate on which to attach M-Brick. Masonry substrates require concrete anchoring screws, and interior installation over drywall requires proper drywall anchors.

  • Stone
  • 2.5 or 3.1 black or galvanized lath (see local code)
  • mortar (see local code, preferably type s)
  • felt paper or building paper (for moisture barrier)
  • mortar color
  • masonry sand

A scratch coat can be applied to the prepared surface but is not always necessary (check your local building codes). If a scratch coat is used simply trowel a 1/4 inch layer of mortar over the wall and then score horizontal lines in the mortar before the scratch coat dries. This will give the stone a rough surface to insure a proper bond. Allow the scratch coat to dry and apply stone.

If a scratch coat is not used simply apply an adequate amount of mud to the back of each stone and push the stone against the structure. Adequate pressure and movement should be applied to insure the stone achieves proper adhesion and that there are no voids between the stone and the structure. Let the mud dry and later fill in the grout lines.

See our installation instructions.

After the stone has been installed and enough time has passed to insure mortar will hold stones in place the joints can be filled with mortar. The same mud used to install the stone can be used for this process. Water can be applied to thin the mortar which will allow proper consistency so the mud will flow through the grout bag. Be sure to keep grout mortar thick enough to hold in place inside of the grout lines. Make sure to fill from the back to the front, a void behind the grout will cause the mortar to be weak and fall out. To finish the grout first let it dry to a level of workability. Starting too soon will cause the mortar to be messy and not finish properly. Starting too late the mortar will become very difficult to finish. Then with a pointer trowel and a stiff bristled brush finish the mortar by dragging away any excess grout. Clean the stone edges and straighten the grout lines to a proper finish.

A. M-Rock stone can be applied over any structurally sound surface such as:

  • Masonry or concrete walls: Stone may be applied to these walls provided the surface is clean and free from paint or sealer. Painted or sealed surfaces should be sandblasted or lathed over.
  • Wood frame new construction: Wood studs should be on 16″ centers and covered with building paper. Blackboard or rigid building Styrofoam can also be used. Apply metal lath to studs or backing using treated or galvanized nails or staples on 6″ centers. Spread a coat of mortar over the lath.
  • Wood siding: This surface should be covered with building paper to conform to local code. Then nail the lath to the surface. Apply lath right to left, top to bottom, to prevent the trowel from hanging on overlapped lath when mortar is applied. Spread mortar from left to right if you are right handed, reverse this process if you are left handed.
  • Metal siding: If the metal has deep ridges in it, apply a solid backing over it before applying the lath.
  • Preformed Concrete Walls: Stone can be applied to these walls. A concrete bonding agent must be used on these types of walls. Follow the manufacturer recommendations to apply the bonding agent.

For Traditional Stone you’ll need:

  • Along with your Traditional Flats/Corner Stones
  • S-Type Mortar and sand
  • Wheelbarrow and hoe
  • Hammer
  • Staple gun
  • Mason’s Hock and Margin trowels
  • Level
  • Masonry, circular or table saw or grinder with carborundum or diamond blade
  • Safety glasses and dust mask
  • Grout bag
  • Hatchet to trim stone
  • Whisk broom for cleaning finished stone areas
  • Weather-resistant barrier (code approved building paper)
  • Code-approved galvanized metal lath
  • Galvanized nails, staples and concrete nails
  • Masonry sealer (only if required)
  • Large sponge

For MSI P-Series:

  • Along with your MSI Flats/Corners
  • Starter Strip Packs
  • Level
  • Drill and appropriate driver
  • Drywall screws for interior application
  • Exterior grade screws for exterior application
  • Recommended 30# felt doubled moisture barrier
  • Polyurethane Construction Adhesive
  • Masonry, circular, or table saw with diamond blade
  • Chiseled Trim, Chiseled Top Sill

For MSI I-Series:

  • 30# felt moisture barrier
  • Level and chalk line
  • Electric Drill
  • And either Drywall screws/anchors, Exterior grade screws, Staples or Construction Adhesive

For M-Brick:

  • Drill with the proper driver for screw being used
  • 7 1/4″ compound miter saw with a diamond tipped masonry blade
  • Grinder
  • Standard level
  • Tape measure
  • Chalk line
  • Grout bag
  • 3/8″ – 1/2″ brick jointer
  • 4″ steel mixing arm for drill
  • 8 1/2″ concrete brush
  • Utility knife
  • Snips

Installed stone should be cleaned as soon as the mortar has dried enough to ensure the stone will hold properly. Waiting too long will cause the mortar to dry to a finished state and the stones will not be able to be cleaned in proper manner. Simply use a stiff bristled plastic masonry brush to scrub and remove any unwanted mortar from the stone. Starting too soon will only smear the mortar on the stone. It is very important that this cleaning process be done on the same day the stone is installed and the same day that the grout-work is done. No water should be used in this process, this will cause the stone to haze and will not come off the stone. No chemicals should ever be used on M-Rock Stone.

On occasion, washing to remove surface debris or dust may be required. For dirt, dust and other particle removal:

  • Gentle scrubbing of the stones surface with a dry soft bristle brush is sufficient to remove dirt or other debris.
  • If necessary use a solution of liquid dish detergent and water. Make sure the detergent does not contain any bleach or other harsh chemicals. Gently scrub with soft bristle brush and detergent/water solution. Rinse well with clean water.
  • If a stronger cleaning agent is necessary, try a granulated mild detergent mixed with water or mix a solution of (no more than) one part white vinegar to five parts water.
  • Rinse with clean water to remove any solution that might remain on the surface.
  • Do Not attempt to clean M-ROCK Stone with acid cleaners, bleach, paint remover or any other type of concrete cleaner.
  • Do Not use wire brushes on M-ROCK Stone